Por: Fabiana Gonçalves* | @escrivinhos
Que o Brasil é um país de dimensões continentais, muita gente sabe disso. Mas o que poucas pessoas nem desconfiam é que o Brasil também é um produtor de vinhos. Embora comparada aos países do Velho Mundo, nossa produção é bastante recente. Mesmo assim, o viajante apaixonado por vinhos tem à disposição uma lista grande de cenários vitivinícolas muito ricos, com paisagens, climas, sotaques e sabores bem distintos.
Registra a história que a produção brasileira de vinhos iniciou no Estado de São Paulo, Sudeste do país. Porém, com a chegada dos imigrantes italianos no final do século XIX, a região Sul, mais especificamente o Estado do Rio Grande do Sul, foi apresentado de maneira muito marcante aos costumes daquele povo, que trouxe consigo além itens pessoais, ferramentas agrícolas e mudas de videiras.
SERRA GAÚCHA – O vinho produzido ali era inicialmente para consumo dos próprios colonos e de suas famílias, mas logo virou meio de sustento para muita gente. Hoje o Rio Grande do Sul é o maior polo de produção de vinhos do Brasil e foi lá onde nasceram as primeiras Indicações Geográficas para a produção de vinhos no país. Essas indicações são uma espécie de selo que garante a procedência do vinho produzido em uma determinada região.
A primeira das regiões a ganhar esse ‘selo’ foi o Vale dos Vinhedos. Ela engloba os municípios de Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi e Monte Belo do Sul, onde estão as vinícolas mais antigas em operação no país.
Essa região é fria no inverno e apresenta características bem europeias – não só pelo clima como também pela arquitetura colonial, culinária e costumes dos descendentes de italianos. Vale ressaltar que a região também recebeu muitos imigrantes alemães, que fundaram colônias e contribuem fortemente na cultura local.
Se quiser conhecer a região e provar o que ela tem de melhor, pegue a Estrada do Vinho (RS-444) e descubra uma série de vinícolas bem próximas umas às outras. Desde as maiores, com dimensões industriais, a cantinas familiares administradas pelos descendentes de seus fundadores.
Passeie pelos espumantes, pelos vinhos brancos leves e aromáticos e também pelos rótulos mais encorpados, com passagem por barricas de carvalho. Prove ainda dos tintos leves e frutados aos mais complexos e com capacidade de guarda.
Próximo a essa região, também na Serra Gaúcha, dê um pulo em Garibaldi, cidade conhecida como a «Capital Brasileira do Espumante», que lembra bastante a região italiana do Vêneto. Falando em espumante, os mais finos e elegantes estão em Pinto Bandeira, cidade que também produz vinhos brancos e tintos de qualidade.
Também pelas redondezas, vale a pena conhecer Farroupilha e Carlos Barbosa, municípios que promovem o turismo religioso e rural. Ainda há Flores da Cunha, outra produtora de vinho que guarda muitos encantos da colonização.
Várias vinícolas da Serra Gaúcha oferecem pousadas e restaurantes. Há também grandes estruturas hoteleiras e de diversão em municípios próximos, como Gramado e Canela – passeio obrigatório para quem vai à região.
CAMPANHA – Indo para o extremo sul, já na fronteira com o Uruguai, próximo aos campos extensos dos Pampas, o turista encontra a região da Campanha Gaúcha. Com a produção de vinhos mais recente e estrutura hoteleira mais modesta, o local atrai os aficionados por vinho pela qualidade e variedade dos produtos que vêm sendo elaborados por lá. O local fervilha com novos projetos e investimentos, apontando um ótimo futuro para o enoturismo local.
SANTA CATARINA – No sentido contrário, atravessando a Serra em direção ao norte, outra região brasileira que desponta fortemente como um destino enoturístico é a Serra Catarinense. Diferente do vizinho Rio Grande do Sul, a produção de vinhos no Estado de Santa Catarina não nasceu através das mãos de colonizadores. Lá o plantio de videiras é mais recente. Quem está à frente das vinícolas são grandes empresários de outros ramos, como têxtil e de materiais de construção, que viram no local um grande potencial de clima, solo e geografia para a elaboração de bons vinhos.
O cenário é digno de filme: cânions, araucárias (árvores típicas da região), cachoeiras e parques ao ar livre se somam a um bom número de vinícolas para visitar e bons restaurantes para comer. Os chalés e pousadas são opções de hospedagem. As principais cidades da região são Urubici e São Joaquim, onde no inverno as temperaturas alcançam abaixo de 0°C.
VALE DO SÃO FRANCISCO – Avançando ainda mais para cima no mapa do Brasil, mais especificamente na região Nordeste, o apreciador de vinhos vai encontrar uma das regiões mais exóticas de vinhos do mundo: o Vale do São Francisco. Situada numa região de semiárido, com temperaturas escaldantes e terra rachada pela falta de chuvas, um elemento faz toda a diferença nessa paisagem – o Rio São Francisco. Graças a esse gigante, que deságua no Oceano Atlântico, foi possível irrigar extensas áreas da região para o cultivo de frutas tropicais.
Além da manga, melão e banana, também se introduziu o plantio de uvas, que se deram muito bem no clima das regiões irrigadas. Se deram tão bem, que ao contrário do restante das regiões viticultoras mundiais, produzem mais de uma safra ao ano. Por isso é considerada exótica.
Se quiser visitar a região, o principal polo é a cidade de Petrolina, localizada no Estado de Pernambuco. Mas a produção também se estende pelo Estado da Bahia. Além do suco de uva, o principal produto das vinícolas locais é o espumante. Porém graças à tecnologia e aos estudos das condições de plantio, a região também oferece vinhos brancos, rosés, tintos e até fortificados. A culinária é rica, com os pescados do Rio São Francisco e a carne de bode – principal iguaria local. Em Petrolina, visite o Bodódromo – uma passarela de restaurantes onde o carro chefe é o bode (tem até pizza de bode!).
MAIS TERROIRS – Outras regiões brasileiras também já têm uma produção expressiva de vinhos e valem a pena ser visitadas. Na região Sudeste, por exemplo, a cidade de São Roque, no interior de São Paulo, e as vinícolas do Sul de Minas Gerais. Rótulos de qualidade têm saído dessas regiões, que também são lindas de visitar. Já no Centro-Oeste é possível visitar vinícolas na Serra dos Pirineus, em Goiás. Voltando ao Sul do país, o Estado do Paraná também já conta com estrutura produtoras de vinhos em várias cidades. Visitando a região Metropolitana da Capital, Curitiba, já é possível conhecer algumas vinícolas fundadas por italianos.
Enfim, boas surpresas não faltam. É só fazer as malas e cair na estrada. Saúde! E se beber, não dirija.
*Jornalista e Sommelière Profissional. Brasil > Pernambuco > Recife.
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